Egg Binding

Introduction

This article will cover the topic of Egg Binding. Of course, Egg Binding can only be found in laying hens and not cock birds, but how will you know if your hen is Egg Bound? You may have a bunch of questions you hope to find answers to in this topic because Egg Binding is quite common even among wild birds, so below we will try to answer as many common questions as we can.

Table of contents

1. Common causes
2. Identifying an egg bound hen
3. The dangers
4. What to do first
5. What not to do
6. Items you may need
7. Treatments

Common causes

For a hen to produce a single egg takes a huge amount of resources. Each egg will produce a life, contain nutrition to support that life during development and a safe environment so that it can develop safely. Some hens can lay as many as 10 eggs each clutch and may have several clutches each year. Although cock birds cannot become egg bound, they can suffer similar deficiencies as hens because they too need the same minerals and vitamins in their diet.

This explains why you often see birds foraging in the dirt and the importance of providing a well-balanced grit dish in all of your cages or aviaries at all times. They require a huge amount of calcium, minerals, iodine, carbon, and a good variety of vitamins across the spectrum. Their bodies take a long time to absorb calcium, so it needs to be in abundance at all times. Offering cuttlebone and crushed oyster shells is not enough; they will likely need a liquid supplement several times per week, maybe more prior to breeding and again after their breeding season ends.

90% of the time when I help someone with their Egg Bound hen, the cause is usually nutritional deprivation. The remaining 10% is often natural causes such as health issues or genetic deformities. Sometimes healthy hens may randomly produce eggs that are not formed correctly despite nothing being wrong with the hen; it happens in life.

Egg Retention

Also known as Retained Egg, egg retention is a serious condition which needs immediate attention by an Avian Vet, or your hen will likely die. If it is the last egg to be laid in the clutch, then you have more time to get it addressed, but not much longer. If more eggs are still being produced by the hen and one from the previous day (Retained Egg) is still lodged inside her, then the new egg cannot pass the lodged egg. Hens do not have the capacity to hold several eggs at one time and survive. The term Egg Retention is not often heard, but it is a common cause of Egg Binding. The cause of Egg Retention may need addressing, especially if it is common with that particular hen.

Here are some reasons why hens are usually unable to pass an egg:

1. Eggshell is too thick
2. Egg has no shell
3. Egg is too large
4. Egg is too small
5. Egg has a malformed shape
6. Hen is too weak
7. Hen is sick
8. Hen is too hot or cold
9. Hen has blockage (another egg or tumour)
10. Hen has internal injury
11. Infection in the oviduct
12. Clogged vent
13. Calcium depletion

Identifying an egg bound hen

It is not easy for a novice to recognize a hen who is Egg Bound, and even some experienced bird keepers struggle to identify Egg Binding, mistaking it for other illnesses. Laying hens, especially Gouldian Finches, will usually have a darker beak or a fuller colour. Sometimes the hen may not be in condition for breeding but may produce an egg out of season and become Egg Bound, with obvious signs.

Below is a list of clinical signs to help identify Egg Binding in hens:

1. Laboured breathing
2. Lameness with half-opened eyes or closed eyes
3. Unusual tail bobbing or twisting
4. Straining to push out the egg
5. Unable to perch
6. Rounded lump on the left upper to lower abdomen area
7. Clear slimy liquid from the vent or broken yolk
8. Unable to hold head up
9. Unable to eat & drink
10. Sitting on the floor unable to move
11. Sudden death

Egg Bound hens are usually seen as fine the day before, but the next morning can often be found on the floor looking close to death or with one or more of the symptoms above. You can gently feel the bird's left-hand side of the abdomen below the keel bone to check for an egg. Press gently in a circular motion; sometimes the egg is evident and sometimes not. Do not press too hard, or you risk breaking the egg inside.

An egg closer to the vent can be gently squeezed out by an experienced person, never a novice, and must be removed the same day. Occasionally, you may see blood from the vent area or in stools, due to excessive straining or a broken egg. This is extremely dangerous; contact an Avian Vet immediately.

The Dangers

If left untreated, the hen's chances of survival are greatly reduced. Sometimes they pull through naturally, but the reason for Egg Binding must be addressed. Hens deficient in vitamins & minerals may produce poor-quality offspring and may have lifelong health issues.

If one hen is Egg Bound, it is likely that others may become Egg Bound too, as nutritional deprivation may affect multiple hens. If they are well-fed, then an underlying health issue may be the cause.

What to do first

Remove the hen from her environment, even if she has eggs or chicks, her life is the priority. Prepare a hospital cage with heat (~85°F), no drafts, Zolcal-D liquid calcium, and a quiet space. Warm hands can also help; reptiles or bird-safe heat lamps are fine. Administer one drop of Zolcal-D to the beak to help dislodge the egg. Do not feed or give water; only an experienced person should provide nutrition via a crop feeding tube if needed.

In past cases, weak or dehydrated hens have required hand-feeding via crop tube with a nutritious mix to give energy to finish laying. Once the egg is laid, the hen will be thirsty and soon return to perching.

The best order to deal with Egg Bound hens:

1. Don't panic
2. Prepare a warm, safe environment
3. Feel for an egg and check her over
4. Place the hen alone in a hospital cage
5. Prepare nutrition in case required
6. Prepare any medication (Zolcal-D or others)
7. Call an Avian Vet if required

If the hen passes the egg on her own, leave her alone, offer a shallow dish (1 cm) of fresh water, and optionally a small amount of seed. Keep her warm at all times. Once back on a perch (~30–60 mins post-laying), she can return to the regular cage. Supplement with liquid calcium 2–3 times per week during the breeding season.

What not to do

Avoid gripping the hen too tightly, restricting breathing, holding around the abdomen, or pressing on it too hard. These actions can harm the hen. Seek help if unsure, or call an experienced Avian Vet.

Do not leave the hen in the cage hoping for the best; egg binding is often caused by keeper care, not genetics. Avoid stress from other pets or children. Never assume cuttlebone and crushed oyster shells are enough; other minerals and nutrition are essential.

Items you may need

A hospital cage should be on hand. If unavailable, a cardboard box or small cage can be used.

Basic makeshift hospital cage setup:

1. Box with ventilation
2. Heat source (lamp, pad)
3. Soft bedding (tissues or similar)

Other items (required items marked with *):

1. Hand rearing formula
2. Crop feeding tube
3. Zolcal-D *
4. Liquid calcium for birds/reptiles *
5. Mixing cup and stirrer
6. Thermometer

Grit dish contents:

1. Crushed sterilized eggshells
2. Crushed oyster shells
3. Crushed iodine/mineral block
4. Thin shavings or grated cuttlebone
5. Carbon granules
6. Small amounts of sea salt

Treatments

During Egg Binding, Zolcal-D is usually sufficient. Rarely, other treatments may be needed, but only after the hen is back on a perch. Zolcal-D is concentrated liquid calcium combined with nutrients to aid recovery. Administering medications too soon can hinder recovery.